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Scarf, Yves Saint Laurent, 1964
Erich Biehle
Scarf, Yves Saint Laurent
Erich Biehle,

Scarf, Yves Saint Laurent,
1964

Erich Biehle
*1087
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Museum für Gestaltung Zürich
Ausstellungsstrasse 60
8031 Zurich
Museum map
Museum für Gestaltung Zürich
Toni-Areal, Pfingstweidstrasse 94
8031 Zurich
  • Yves Saint Laurent Erich Biehle Scarf
  • Yves Saint Laurent Erich Biehle Scarf
  • Yves Saint Laurent Erich Biehle Scarf
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Listen to the text
Interview mit Eric Biehle
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With his keen sense of design, fabrication, and application of textiles, Erich Biehle (b. 1941) has created successful and readily accessible works that have helped to shaped his Parisian clients’ haute couture and prêt-à-porter collections. The black-and-white scarf is an early example of the many geometric-patterned scarves Biehle has designed for Yves Saint Laurent.

As a designer at L. Abraham + Co. Seiden AG, Erich Biehle was already working in the early 1960s on Yves Saint Laurent’s very first scarf collection. This silk scarf from a slightly later date features a strictly geometrical and symmetrical-mirrored composition, highlighted by the black/white contrast. By wearing the scarf tied in different ways, the black bars are broken up and reassembled into new patterns. On closer inspection, it becomes evident that the lines were hand-drawn—Biehle never used a ruler when crafting his designs. The scarf thus subtly draws attention to one of the main characteristics of his work, especially apparent in his floral and ornamental designs: many of his works originate in painted designs, often realized with a special wax technique on Japan paper. As scarves were to become for the fashion houses important brand vehicles that helped to disseminate their name, the label design played a vital role. Here Biehle has inserted a conspicuously eye-catching block label in a contrasting color—a design element that, like the geometric composition, would reappear on subsequent YSL scarves. The freehand lettering specified by the fashion house fits in perfectly with Biehle’s hand-drawn lines. The scarf offered the customer a way to purchase a more affordable and yet more personal item from the house of YSL. (Rhiannon Ash)

Foulard, 1964
Entwurf: Erich Biehle
Auftrag: Yves Saint Laurent Couture, Paris, FR
Produktion: Abraham AG, Zürich, CH
Material/Technik: Seide, bedruckt
84 × 90 cm
Donation: Erich Biehle
Eigentum: Museum für Gestaltung Zürich / ZHdK
Image creditso

Foulard, 1964, Entwurf: Erich Biehle, Donation: Erich Biehle
Abbildung: Museum für Gestaltung Zürich / ZHdK

Foulards für YSL, um 1965, Entwurf: Erich Biehle, Donation: Erich Biehle
Abbildung: Museum für Gestaltung Zürich / ZHdK

Fotos aus Modemagazinen mit Kleidern aus Stoffen von Erich Biehle, 1960er-Jahre, Donation: Erich Biehle
Abbildung: Museum für Gestaltung Zürich / ZHdK

Materialien aus dem Archiv Biehle, Donation: Erich Biehle
Abbildung: Museum für Gestaltung Zürich / ZHdK

Exhibition texto
Erich Biehle – Yves Saint Laurent

Erich Biehle (b. 1941) designed this hand-printed silk scarf after having already been responsible for Yves Saint Laurent’s first scarf collection as a designer at L. Abraham + Co. Seiden AG in Zurich. The strict geometric composition is rarely seen as it is here but rather falls in soft folds when worn and is thus transformed into a loose pattern. The eye-catching label marks the wearer as the owner of a YSL piece. Biehle successfully used both design features for numerous YSL silk scarves.